Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Surfboards are for surfing

I've never surfed. I've body-surfed and boogie-boarded. But never the real thing. I think I'd like it...


I had the opportunity to spend last weekend in LA with my oldest daughter. On Sunday, I rolled out early to hit the gym. It was leg day, so I thought where better than to go to the original Gold's Gym in Venice, CA. This fabled gym is where body building began. Through its doors have walked, and on it's floors have sweat, the likes of Arnold, Lou, Franco, Dorian and Tom.  (If you don't know them by first names... then you've probably never picked up a Muscle and Fitness magazine. Try this, the first two are "The Terminator," and "The Hulk" and the last, "Quadzilla").

Trying to decide which of the poses behind me would work
best... finally decided on, "duh!"
After working my legs into noodles in Gold's, I walked down to Venice Beach. I've always had a rule that when near an ocean, I have to, at some point, get my feet wet. I worked my way past the sheer craziness along Venice Beach sidewalk, finally reaching the hot sand. (If you've been to Venice on a weekend you'll know that when I say "craziness," I've not come close to describing the scene). I popped off my shoes and socks and made a beeline for the water.  A regatta of big sailboats was maneuvering off shore. Para-sailors were para-sailing, children were playing in the surf, and sun-bathers were... well, doing nothing at all (I've never quite caught on).

Yep - that's a beach selfie. I have no excuse. 






Eventually, what caught my attention were the surfers. Dozens of them, clad in wet-suits, sat out on their boards bobbing up and down. The waves were fairly large, crashing hard into the beach. Beach-goers with ankle-deep commitment were constantly forced to high-tail it toward the dry sand. And there about 50 to 100 yards out sat the surfers. Do you read anything wrong in that sentence? There they sat. Wetsuit? Check. Surfboard? Check. Perfect California day? Check. Decent breakers rolling in (at least from this Okie's viewpoint)? Check. Surfing? Nope... just sitting... bobbing. I assume they were looking for the perfect wave.

I wanted to see some surfing; I mean the real Bonsai Pipeline barrel riding. (OK - I know I was in the wrong spot for that, but still...). What I saw was bobbing. Bobbing with an occasional uncommitted no-energy paddle toward a wave. Then I saw - you guessed it - an incredible metaphor for life. And very frankly, I saw a metaphor for large parts of my life. All the bobbers out on the ocean Sunday were completely outfitted to surf. Yet they bobbed. It's easier to bob. It takes no effort or commitment to bob. And you can't fail when you bob. But - and here's a big but - there is no thrill in bobbing. There's no rush in bobbing. There is no accomplishment or victory in bobbing. Sure, if you expend the energy to paddle in you might miss the wave. You might have to turn around and paddle back to where you were before. You might paddle in, get up on your board only to have a bad wipeout, get rolled up by the waves, lose your shorts and get a mouthful of Venice Beach salt (and whatever else??) water. BUT - and here's an even bigger but - you might ride a wave. You might feel the rush and exhilaration of truly surfing!

On the plane home I began to assess a couple areas where I am bobbing. As I have written before, I am a work in progress - as are you. I wish I were further along so I could write my been-there-done-that story of inspiration. But in many areas of my life at Fit50! I'm just beginning to surf! My challenge to US - stop bobbing and paddle in! Pick an area of life... fitness/health, job, relationship, spiritual, family, education, whatever. STOP BOBBING AND PADDLE IN... 


SURF'S UP (dude)!!!


For now...
D